The A/W 25 fashion shows in February fell just before lockdown restrictions were put in place in Europe. Since these collections were presented, not only has the fashion industry faced enormous challenges but also the way we all get dressed has changed significantly. The season was divided into two distinct camps. On one side were fantasy, couture-like creations designed for extravagant social lives, and the second was a continued shift toward wearable, classic pieces. While the Villanelle-style evening gowns are beautiful to look back at, with an uncertain six months ahead of parties and us still on hold, for this A/W 25 trend report, I’m focusing on the pieces I think people will buy into over the next six months.
The word trend is now a dirty word in fashion circles, as we all look to be more mindful with our consumption and buy items with longevity in mind. When compiling this trend report, I was conscious to avoid any trends that I believe will have a short shelf life and instead focused on styling tweaks that you can achieve with classic autumn pieces or updates that will last far beyond one season.
“We are certainly seeing designers choosing to showcase a selection of really wearable pieces, more so than other recent seasons,” says Elizabeth von der Goltz, global buying director at Net-a-Porter. “This reflects the customer’s desire to make more considered purchases with sustainability in mind by investing now and wearing forever. Our wardrobes will be more hardworking than ever before, featuring well-loved pieces that can be styled in multiple ways and across multiple seasons. Pieces that we will always champion for fall—this season is no exception—are boots, tailoring, outerwear, sumptuous knitwear and, of course, the finishing touches like a beautiful piece of jewellery.”
Due to the current economic uncertainty, one report said 79% of consumers plan to cut their apparel budget in the next 12 months, which inevitably will manifest in people being considerate with the things they do choose to buy and leaning toward timeless items. To get a sense of what people will be buying over the next six months, I spoke to dozens of fashion buyers for their intel on how they have shifted their buys in light of the current circumstances. Many said that they had invested most heavily in classic outerwear and boots for the upcoming season—the bread and butter of autumn dressing, of course, but this reiterates that in times of uncertainty, many lean toward basics and seasonal staples.
As we’re spending more time indoors and at home, many of us are prioritising comfort and ease when getting dressed. However, this is balanced with the increasing desire to return to our regular wardrobe routines and to get dressed appropriately. “Understated luxury is the keyword for many collections, and the vocabulary is high-quality knits, cashmere and neutral tones,” says Tiffany Hsu, fashion buying director at MyTheresa. “Among the ways to achieve the look, the knit dress is a new wardrobe essential.” Buyers have focused on a capsule of easy-to-style. Still, elevated separates, as Lydia King, fashion director at Harrods, says her hero pieces for at-home dressing this autumn are “relaxed silhouettes, cocooning knitwear, easy dresses, silk separates and chunky boots for stepping outside.”
Comfort is key. However, instead of loose, baggy knits, loungewear is made to feel more elevated this autumn thanks to the return of fitted silhouettes. “The second most prevalent trend was the focus on the female form, which saw the return of the bodycon dress,” adds von der Goltz. “However, today’s version of the bodycon is more elegant.” Think of the fitted, body-hugging knitwear we saw Gwyneth Paltrow wearing in the ’90s.
Another significant shift we’ve seen during COVID-19 is the rapid explosion of resale sites—the ThredUp resale report estimates that online second-hand is set to grow 69% between 2020 and 2021, while the retail sector is projected to shrink 15%. You’ll find many of the autumns buys below on resale and vintage sites, from boxy blazers and belts to Gucci’s re-released Jackie bag. So when compiling this report, I have included several second-hand shopping options to stress the timeless nature of these autumn pieces.
From knitted vests (thanks Gucci) to statement collars made for Zoom, keep scrolling for what’s what for autumn.
Belted Jackets
This is a simple styling update that you can probably achieve with items you already own. Every major designer had jackets and blazers (usual ones with boxy proportions) worn with a belt looped around the waist. Prada showed grey wool blazers with a black belt with a mini coin purse attached, while Miu Miu used a classic black belt to add definition to its puffer jackets.
Bodycon
The return of ’90s clean lines, and this is continuing into A/W with a focus on fitted silhouettes. This bodycon is a world away from the Kardashian school of dressing that might come to mind, as many of these dresses had long hemlines and a relaxed feel thanks to knitted fabrics. “Today’s version of bodycon is more elegant. It was interesting to see brands bringing sexy back, but in a more modern and updated style,” adds von der Goltz. “No one delivered this better than Proenza Schouler, whose dresses are figure-enhancing. The key is to keep hemlines long and style with second-skin boots.” The bodycon dress is one of the items that Net-a-Porter has backed for the autumn season, with styles from Khaite, Brandon Maxwell and the wrap-effect dresses at Burberry and JW Anderson.
Capes
When it comes to outerwear, capes were seen across the four capitals, from tweed throw-on versions at Celine that have a heritage country feel to sweeping black gown–cape hybrids at Balenciaga. For a cosier feel, I love the yellow fringed ponchos at Gabriela Hearst.
Collars
In 2021, the idea of waist-up dressing has taken hold, as many are getting ready considering what elements of the outfit will be seen (and not seen) on a video call. The A/W collections included many statement look-at-me collars, which are a welcome addition to any video call. One of the most impactful looks of the entire season was the black trouser suit that Kaia Gerber wore at Bottega Veneta, which was punctuated with an acid-green shirt collar poking out over the jacket lapel.
Colourful Checks
I would guess that checks have featured on every autumn trend report that has ever been published on Who What Wear. However, for this autumn, they were punchier than usual. Instead of heritage prints, we saw grid patterns in bright and unusual colour mixes. At Dior, checks were layered to add more impact, while one of my favourite looks of the season is the burgundy-and–baby blue checked coat at Lanvin.
Fringing
Bottega Veneta has been the brand steering trends ever since Daniel Lee took to the helm, and for A/W, everything from handbags to dresses had statement fringe finishing. Burberry had crystal fringing, while Jil Sander and Salvatore Ferragamo showed a more minimal spin on the trend with monochrome skirts and dresses adorned with a layer of fringing.
